Goth has long been something associated with grungy looks, baggy trousers and ripped clothes but a new generation of celebrities has seen a resurgence of goth – with a glamourous twist.

Like many nineties trends, goth is coming back – but it’s trendier, sexier and slicker than 30 years ago. 

Instead of being defined by baggy jeans and ripped T-shirts, the staples of new goth are tight dresses, designer gear and an altogether more stylish, composed look, a leading trend expert has revealed.

Last weekend, Kourtney Kardashian ‘married’ Travis Barker in Vegas –  the reality star, known in the past for a girly colourful style, opted for a black leather jacket, black jeans and a yellow Versace corset with a large crucifix insignia.

Meanwhile, her rocker fiancée also sported leather. The looks had the touches of the typical goth that grew to prominence in the eighties and nineties, but is more refined and high-end, defined by couture designers including Versace, Givenchy and Gucci. 

Their wedding – which was performed without a license and isn’t legally binding – wasn’t the first time the pair sported the goth couture look. Kourtney and Travis also opted for all black on both the Oscar and Grammy red carpets and has been updated by other stars such as Billie Eilish, Megan Fox, Machine Gun Kelly and Saweetie. 

Speaking to FEMAIL, trend expert Brenda Gabriel explained: ‘As with any trend that cycles back, its been just over 20 years since Goth saw a 90s explosion in mainstream fashion and celebrity culture. 

‘Think Helena Bonham-Carter, Winona Ryder, Madonna, Angelina Jolie – circa 1997- 98. 

‘The reigning goth couple at the time was none other than Rose McGowan and her then beau Marilyn Manson

‘Mainstream Gothcore has been ‘”upgraded” by the influence of couture. 

‘Much in the way that Kanye, Virgil Abloh and the new generation of rappers influenced the migration of streetwear to mainstream, celebs such as Kourtney Kardashian and Megan Fox have become celebrity muses for couture houses and the 20’s iteration of Gothcore.’

The trend has been echoed online too.  

Resale app Depop reported a 20 per cent rise increase in searches for ‘goth’ and ‘gothcore’ at the end of 2021 – there was also a 200 per cent spike for ‘black corset top’ in October.

The r/Goth community on Reddit grew by 35 per cent in 2021 while r/GothStyle had a 136 per cent increase to 115,000 members.  

Last week, the Grammys were dominated by red carpet looks of corsets and lace, with Dua Lipa opting for a vintage Gianna Versace bondage gown, while newcomer Olivia Rodrigo opted for a corset detail in a floor-length Vivienne Westwood, a designer who has been described as ‘the godmother of goth’.

‘Custom fit is and always has been a consideration in couture, so we would expect to see more refined silhouettes on the catwalk and on celebrities,’ Brenda added to FEMAIL.

‘Gothcore going mainstream is heavily influenced by fashion houses such as Givenchy and celebrity but also the desire for people express darker emotions or a darker side of their personality after two years of restrictions and lockdowns.

‘2020s Gothcore update combines vintage influences such as corsets, plaid, platform shoes and updates it with luxe materials such as lace, leather, sheer fabric, fur and satin paired with figure hugging silhouettes, flattering cuts and exposed flesh, that give a modern chic edge, which goes beyond the basic black seen in goth looks of the past’.

This means modern goth looks are less likely to be defined by baggy silhouettes and self-proclaimed outsiders like Marilyn Manson and instead associated with the ‘hot goth girlfriends’ in high-end designers – such as Kourtney and her BFF Megan Fox.

‘The other factor in making Goth more chic is the accompanying accessories, hair and makeup looks. Its all about the detail,’ Brenda added.

‘Meghan Fox attended the 2021 MET Gala in a scarlet lace up dress with intricate beadwork with hair and makeup giving a nod to 1950’s pin up rather than traditional Goth. 

‘We also saw Saweetie pair her black regal inspired goth outfit with a gold garter chain and gelled baby hairs modernising what could easily looked more cos play than couture.’.

The look has also been seen on Kourtney’s sister Kim – who wore and all black completely covered looked to the Met Gala.

The reality star covered her face in the Balenciaga number, while stars like Billie Eilish have also worn high-end goth and opted for the likes of Gucci on the red carpet.

At this year’s Oscar’s Billie opted for a baggy black number by Gucci, while at the Grammy’s a few days prior the hitmaker wore a bat-like dress.  

‘Whereas a staple of the Goth subculture is chunky platform shoes or boots, with not much care for hand luggage celebs such as Meghan Fox and Kourtney Kardashian often pair outfits with sky high stilettos and chain accented handbags,’ Brenda explained.

‘Goth makeup has previously focused on embracing the pale pallor commonly associated with vampires twinned with dark eyes and lips.

‘Today make up looks vary from natural or nude looks – as seen on Olivia Rodrigo and Kourtney Kardashian to blood red or scarlet lips and pared back eye makeup with Casey liner as sported by Meghan Fox.

Casey Cadwallader, Creative Director of Mugler and mastermind behind some of Megan Fox’s vampy, goth looks recently told the Evening Standard she ‘loves a gothy tough girl’.

‘Megan picks the most smouldering things we make,’ he says. ‘And she carries them with this oozing confidence and sultry look that’s just like — I dare you to mess with me.’

But it’s not just for A-listers, on TikTok #goth has more than 10.4bn views while Lyst say items by cult goth designer Rick Owens have surged 200 per cent in 2022.

Outside of fashion, there’s been a goth influence on culture more broadly. Olivia Rodrigo, is often described by fashion editors as a ‘goth princess’.

Taylor Swift, who is known for her folksy-anti-goth cottage core style had folk horror references in her latest album and there’s been a rise in noughties pop-punk nostalgia on Instagram and TikTok. 

‘The original goth aesthetic was less about projecting an image and more about communicating attitude or emotional state. Both Kourtney and Meghan Fox are both using Goth as a way to do away their previous “Good Girl” persona and overhaul their personal brands.

‘Their relationships with Travis Barker and MGK, and close friendship undoubtedly playing a role in their sartorial choices’

Brenda adds that the peak in goth culture comes, in part, as a rejection of the cottage core and fairycore we saw during the pandemic. 

‘No doubt in part due to us being forced as society to look towards traditional ways of entertaining ourselves including baking, knitting and all the things we never found the time to do until we weren’t able to go out freely. 

‘The Cottage core aesthetic is said to be one that is more ‘Prairie’ like, with inspiration taken from what we would deem a more simple time in Western history. 

‘We realised we enjoyed engaging in retro activities and wanted the clothes to match. 

‘Fast forward to two years of a pandemic, working from home and limited outings, most of us are ready to break free and embrace our darker side. What better way to do this than with rebellious, anti establishment clothing?’